Cakeface 101

What do we think “CC” stands for?

is it cute cat? is it cool cucumber?? is it coochie cream???

TRICK QUESTION. It’s all of the above.

today though - it’s COLOR CORRECTOR!

anndd now for a super drawn out and dramatic backstory, not only of how color correcting changed my life, but also the inspiration behind this post.

** feel free to skip to word ✨UNDERTONE✨ if you’re just here to learn how erase your dark circles ;)

I’ve gotten more than a few questions (since moving out of Oregon) about if I offer makeup courses, and sadly I do not - YET. I’ve been brewing some ideas, to fill the need and ultimately help the gworls out… which is the whole point of me starting this blog. I would love to embrace more of a community, creating a safe space for myself and anyone who cares to read my nonsense. To do so, I believe it’s important NOT to gatekeep.

Now I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t also planning to monetize some of this wisdom? But luckily for anyone who’s with me in my early stages, I’m more than willing and open to volunteer this information for the grand price of $free.99 🤑I mean and as I should? Think of it like college, you don’t know what you don’t know - so you’re willing to pay for an institution to “provide” you the information you lack… except you provide that for yourself too, and it comes in the form of purchasing books and wether or not you make the decision to read them. Unfortunately capitalism is the way of the world, and it does bleed into the world of cosmetics…

BUT NOT IN THIS FUCKING DOLLHOUSE!

excuse my French, but seriously, I want everyone to understand the basics of makeup OR at least have access to the blueprint of bad bitchery.

I was inspired by the inquiries around me hosting a makeup class, but most of all? My best friend Wintre’s incompetence for a simple makeup routine inspires me the MOST. She honestly assisted me a ton, starting out my career as a Freelancer. She has a beautiful modeling portfolio, so I was able to get my brand behind a lot of her shoots, which thus connected me with a ton of photographers, and enhanced my skillset, and so fourth.. With that, I also expected that she would naturally pick up a few pointers, or at least know the steps to the routine I use.. on her face? But nay nay.

I decided to film and edit a personalized makeup tutorial and walk-through for her. It was intended to be a birthday present, but I knew how unserious she was (which is no excuse, it’s fake of me and this is why I’m owning it). Eventually I delivered, and while filming, I realized how far I’ve came with actually comprehending the application of makeup. I also took notice to how I made it ALL sound SO simple, but like can totally remember a time where it SO wasn’t. When I started my journey with makeup of December 2018, girl I STRUGGLED. It legit took me 3 months to successfully fade out my eyebrows, and it was TOUGH because I started when the girls were really into the ABH Dipbrow Pomade (It had me in a chokehold and sometimes I consider going back).

Immediately after mastering the brows, I moved on to attempting a full face.

Another horrible fail. (well for today’s standard)

Which really was discouraging because in my mind: the girls at M.A.C gave me a shade match and they “wouldn't” steer me in the wrong direction, so if it’s ugly then I guess makeup just “wasn’t for me”

wrong again.

Once I finally figured it out (and shopped in a more affordable market cough cough maybe it’s maybelline?), I realized the power of choosing an appropriate concealer shade. I’d also love to say the M.A.C Artists who worked at the Water Tower Place dt Chicago? “yeah, those bitches didn’t know shit”.. I’d LOVEE to say that? But since I’ve actually BEEN a M.A.C Artist - one who’s NEVER had a return on account of recommending the wrong shade, I have more compassion and believe they just forgot to enlighten me on the importance of a little concept called

✨ UNDERTONE ✨

It’s such a simple concept, but it’s actually a huge fucking deal and literally could be the difference in you being casket ready.

It’s all about comprehending how to ensure the makeup looks good indoor, outdoors, in high light, in low light, etc. Because the LAST thing you want is flashback or a brassy-orange toned face atop a pale body - unless you’re into that look, then more power to you girl. But me, I personally would prefer a nice even complexion that is a sum of all my pigments cohesively.

Women of color often had pale casts to their makeup in early fashion scenes primarily due to a lack of diverse and suitable makeup products. The beauty industry historically lacked a wide range of foundation shades, particularly those that catered to us deeper skin girlies. Many available products were formulated with lighter pigments that didn't match or complement darker skin tones, resulting in an ashy or pale appearance. Additionally, the fashion industry at the time was less inclusive, with limited awareness and understanding of the diverse needs of different skin tones. Makeup artists often used products not designed for women of color, leading to mismatched foundations and inadequate representation in media and fashion. Over time, awareness and demand for inclusivity have grown, leading to the development of makeup lines that offer a broader range of shades to accommodate various skin tones.

But this is an issue that can affect anyone of any race or complexion. All it takes the WRONG shade, and then boom - everyone’s going to label you a “Cakeface”!

and that is like.. top 5 worst insults to receive - so now let’s get into avoiding that!

This is no shade, no hate, or disrespect to anyone or anyone else’s artistry. Just demonstrating some obvious examples of poorly coordinated undertone shades.

Pay close attention to the neck. Although your foundation doesn’t have to match your neck to an exact, it is a helpful tool to utilize as a focal point because… it’s literally HOLDING UP YOUR ENTIRE FACE. They HAVE to mesh well together IF they’re not closely the same shade. Period.

If you snap a selfie with flash, and instead of your gorgeous face - you get a powdered doughnut back - Wyd ??

Hopefully, you’re considering these factors:

  • It’S literally just the wrong shade: The foundation or powder might be too light for your skin tone.

  • It may contain SPF Ingredients, as products with SPF often contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which can sometimes leave a white cast, especially under flash photography.

  • It oxidizes: Some makeup products change color after application due to oxidation, sometimes becoming lighter or turning ashy. Do more research to narrow it down between the brands you use.

  • It may be your application method: applying too much product or not blending it properly can also result in an uneven, pale look.

  • Consider the lighting in which you apply your makeup can affect how it appears on your skin. Natural light is the best for color matching.

  • and then lastly, but more like firstly - it might be your skin type and preparation methods. If your skin is not well-moisturized or primed, makeup may not adhere properly, leading to a mismatched appearance. For example, If you pair a water-based concealer with a silicone-based foundation, to apply to your unprimed and extremely oily skin - you’d likely get a wonky finish.

There are also natural factors to consider, like hyperpigmentation, acne or blemishes. These are usually the things we’re actually trying to “conceal” or hide in plain sight.

For some of us, depending on the week or season - it’s the reason why we ever put on makeup in the first place. Some of us shop for the brand, or product credibility. Regardless of your why: I know one thing for sure - There is no sense in spending the money to have things you don’t know how to use!

Now, for the the answer to revival and erasing the morning dead look.

Allow me to introduce:

ORANGE CORRECTORS

Orange correctors work effectively on dark circles because they counteract the blue and purple tones commonly found in under-eye discoloration. This principle is based on color theory, where complementary colors, when placed next to each other, neutralize each other.

Here's how it works:

  • Color Wheel Theory: On the color wheel, orange is directly opposite blue. This means that these two colors cancel each other out.

  • Neutralization: When you apply an orange corrector to blue or purple-toned dark circles, it helps to neutralize these colors. This reduces the appearance of darkness and creates a more even skin tone.

  • Skin Tone Consideration: Orange correctors are particularly effective for us dollies with medium to deep skin complexions, where dark circles might have a more pronounced blue or purple hue.

By neutralizing the underlying discoloration, orange correctors allow for a more natural and brighter appearance when followed by concealer application.

I purchased this concealing palette from M.A.C - because it was my favorite thing to utilize on clients for their “Wow in 15” appointments. Before I moved I went and bought my own, and it’s like… revolutionary for my daily routine.

I start with using the shade with the orange tint, all over my chin, mouth, eye and undereye regions. This is my color correcting method, it doesn’t take much, little goes a long way - and it is the step that essentially “wakes” me up everyday.

Immediately after, I use the top 2 lightest shades to do things like carve out my eyebrows, conceal underneath my eyes, and spot correct any blemishes.

Lastly, I take the lightest yellow shade, and apply that only under and above the eye, on the mustache area, and then on the chin. My neck complexion is very neutral cool, whereas my body is more on the warm spectrum - so I find this tool helpful because it’s a little easier to blend than a liquid formula. It allows you to mix the shades to attain the look you need, and you know when enough is enough - because the cream will blend seamlessly.

This is also my “No Makeup, Makeup” Method.

I might do this + a little blush & mascara = boom, I’m ready for the day in under 10 minutes.

the exact same color wheel I used as a M.A.C Artist, and is universally solicited by most Professional Trainers.

This is a science.

To assist, try utilizing a color wheel. It’s like a rainbow circle that helps us see how colors relate to each other. Imagine a pie chart with slices in different colors. The main colors—red, blue, and yellow—are called primary colors. When you mix these, you get secondary colors: green, orange, and purple. Finally, when you mix a primary color with a secondary color, you get tertiary colors like red-orange or blue-green.

Why It Matters

Choosing the right foundation shade is like finding your perfect match. It makes your skin look even and natural. If the shade is too light or dark, it can make your face look off. That's where color correcting comes in. Think of it as using special crayons to fix little skin issues before applying concealer or foundation.

For example, a green corrector can hide redness, while a peach one can brighten dark circles.

By using color correctors and the right foundation shade, your concealer will work better to cover blemishes or dark spots. This creates a smooth, flawless look without any unwanted shadows or uneven tones.

this is currently sold at a retailed price of $42.00 USD.

If you’re a doll with fair or medium light skin - this is what I recommend for you:

SAME palette, different shade range.

It’s going to deliver you the same corrector combinations, except with pale tones instead of deep.

Your protocol would be, utilizing the pale pink, or PEACHTONE, for your dark circles and blemishes. Dip back and fourth between that and the other neutral tones to create an even complexion all over.

You can use the pale YELLOW to even out any mild redness. Another good strategy for lighter girlies, utilizing a GREEN color corrector. You can use a green pigment if you have intense redness, that will cancel out. A PURPLE pigment if you’re medium toned and want to cancel some dullness, or minor dark spots. A BLUE pigment to neutralize any color or shade ever…

The possibilities are endless once you really understand the theory of color.

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